Alexander McQueen is another one of my favorite collections to look at every year. Not going to lie, most years the fashion week info is so overwhelming, that I tend to look at my 10 most favorite runways shows, then call it a day and wait to see what pops up in fashion magazines. This year however I’m making a conscious effort to look at if not all of them, way more than usual. I think the blog will help with that. So will the fact that I canceled most of my magazine subscriptions as the payment for them was all due at the same time, I had financial issues that month, and most magazines end up in a pile in the corner unready anyway.
But back to the topic at hand. I didn’t hear of Alexander McQueen at all until fashion school (I was a very uninformed midwesterner until college), but once I did that Google search, I was in love. This was right around the time of the Spring 2010 Alien collection. As a young fashion designer wannabe, I became obsessed with the prints. And those shoes! It didn’t hurt that I was also a Lady Gaga fan and Bad Romance dropped during that show.
I was devastated to hear of his death a few months later. It was like I had finally found him, and then he was gone. Sarah Burton has tried hard to fill those shoes, and has done as well as anyone can. Many of her shows since then have been phenomenal, but nothing has been able to have the impact on me as that first Spring collection I saw.
But maybe that is just because it was my introduction into the world of McQueen. Fall 2016 was excellent. This was the first time the brand had shown at London Fashion Week after over a decade on the Paris list. Which is more fitting in my opinion. Paris Fashion Week may be “the place” in the industry, but London always has way more of a cool factor.
I saw some Victorian elements here too, in the choice of fabrics and laces, as well as some of the button details. Of course, this is no surprise at a McQueen show. Burton pulls out a few of these every season, whether or not it is a current trend.
The show started with black coats and dressed adorned with butterflies, lips, and other colorful motifs, giving just the right amount of quirk to an otherwise dark opening. Unless you’re going uber-goth like Marc Jacobs, throwing some bright colors in there is the way to go. Throughout the whole show, these embellishments kept a sense of fun to the looks.
Vogue Runway described the collection as “spun out of dreams” but I tend to disagree. A dreamy collection feels almost ethereal, with long flowing gowns and different prints than were shown here. While the gowns at the end definitely fit the description, the rest of the collection to me reads more lively, like a girl wanting to stand out in the sea of black coats that is winter.
All in all, it was a good season, but the show felt as if there were too parts, the cool girl at the beginning and the goddess at the end, with only the butterflies and lips to connect them. I do not know if that was Ms. Burton’s intention. If it was, congratulations.
All photos via Vogue