I will always think that the amount of shows that happen during a fashion week is insane. And where does the time go? I’ve already missed two fashion weeks and half of a third. I have some serious catching up to do. At least will all the snow and cold for the next couple days, staying in on the couch flipping through runway pics is looking pretty good.
The next few articles will be reviews and highlights of all the shows, starting with my favorites.
We’re going to start with one of the most fun designers of New York:
I guess he is always one of the last shows of New York Fashion Week (as I am frequently behind on checking in with this stuff online, I’m never entirely sure of the order). And every year he is one of the most exciting. Things were much better when he was creative director of Louis Vuitton, and we had two shows of his to look forward to. But now that all his focus is on just the one label, that namesake collection becomes even more impactful.
I love the fact that Vogue Runway includes full videos from a lot of the shows-way better that just looking at photos. Sometimes you just need the movement and the sound. The way this show started was one of those. It’s quiet, the room is all white, and then you hear the “ding” of a bell. The first girl walks, in combat boots higher than most stilettos, and you’re hooked. It did get kind of annoying listening to the bells the whole time though.
Like many other designers this year, Jacobs sprinkled some Victorian inspirations throughout the collection. However, his went full goth. The kinds of things little high school me in her all-black-everything-just-getting-into-fashion phase dreamed about creating one day. In describing the collection, Jacobs even mentions Lydia from Beetlejuice, my high school idol.
The makeup on these girls was also a teenage goth girls dream. I would love to recreate these looks, however in real life they only look good on people like Taylor Momsen (who would look awesome in the whole collection, by the way. That hair too-did anyone else wish they had the skills to make their hair that badass when they were younger?
As always with Marc Jacobs, the little details pulled the whole thing together. Small, dark pops of color mixed up the black and white looks. Skirts and dressed were accessorized with cool pretty tights-holes, rips, and snags included.
The gowns were super luxe, especially this purple and black striped number here.
And this black sequin and lace number that looks like the most beautifully wicked evil queen character you definitely don’t want to cross.
I will give the design team one plus- it is challenging to make sequins look appropriate in a goth themed collection. Congratulations guys, you did it.
Another unique element: I don’t think I saw one stud in the entire collection. Studs are too often used in an effort to make things seem more punk. Jacobs went for grommets, still frequently used, but not as overdone, and still edgy. And he included them mostly on bags, so we didn’t get tired of it halfway through the show as sometimes happens when you sit through 30 looks with the same cool detail. Too much of a good thing…
Oh yeah, Lady Gaga was even a model.
The one down side I have to say is (and I’m adapting this from a famous line by one of my other fictional idols) “Goth…for fall? Groundbreaking.”
Unfortunately, Mr. Marc, Goth has been done for fall numerous times over. If you had dropped this little bomb in the middle of spring, it would have been much cooler. We all know us fashion girls love black all year round.
All photos from Vogue Runway